So there is a correction about something I had written last time that is not accurate. After texting with Maya who had lived in South Africa for four months, she had learned that in Durban, some blacks (I'm hoping this is the PC term) have cars, but only the affluent and middle class black families. Usually, blacks ride taxis and whites do not. Whites have cars and drive. After experiencing the Apartheid Museum in Johannesburg towards the end of my trip, it was blaringly apparent how deeply rooted segregation continues to be in this culture. The Apartheid Museum confirmed some of my quick outsider observations, but in no way could I ever be a cultural expert by visiting countries for such a short time span. What you notice quickly though is usually always interesting.
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| Apartheid Museum, Johannesburg |
Now back to the African bush...Maya and my's first safari was breathtaking! We had to wake up around 3:30 AM in our hut to make it out to the safari vehicle for 4 AM. Our safari started at 4 AM (at least from what I remember) and it was actually cold when we headed out to the vehicle. Cold! What a change from Singapore! The goal was to catch the animals waking up. I'll be honest, I was completely excited for this safari, but I was also a bit wary. What if some of the animals came charging at us? I didn't really think that would happen, but there were definitely some reservations coupled with adrenaline. Maybe I was just excited because I love animals so much. The first animal we encountered on our pre-dawn ride was a hyena. It was a bit freaky to see a hyena because I had just seen
The Lion King and those animals were so nasty. That's how much of an influence movies can really have on people. Anyway, we saw the hyena in the dark, but someone had to hold this large flashlight contraption (that someone was me because I sat in the front of the vehicle) and shine it on the animal. I had to position myself somewhat close to this hyena! The big flashlight was also heavy and made my task more challenging. I looked forward to the dawn. "Click, click". I handed the big flashlight to Maya and took some photos of the first real-life hyena I had ever seen.
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| The hyena pre-dawn |
The sky slowly turned to light. I could finally put the heavy flashlight down for good. Our next stop took us to an area of white rhinos. Some were awake, some were sleeping. The rhinos were huge! Our guide told us about the poachers who have hunted these animals to near extinction. Their ivory horns are the prized possession. The animals are supposed to be protected in this park; however, unfortunately, poachers find their way in. It's very sad. "Click, click". I captured tons of rhino shots.
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| These rhinos knew I was taking a photo |
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| The wildebeets and impalas have a feeling they're on the menu |
We proceeded from the rhino area and stumbled upon wildebeests and impalas (medium-sized African antelope) on edge. Why were they all perfectly standing the same way, facing the same direction? I thought that some smell had to be in the air. The animals seemed like they were in a trance and I caught it on my camera. The impalas especially were beautiful and so cute! After waiting a while to see what these animals were going to do (they really just stood there and it got boring), the vehicle carried on forward. I unassumingly looked around and to my left, and to my surprise, there were two lions, a male lion and lioness, ducking down in the bush. Without realizing (and with my loud voice), I exclaimed, "Oh my God there's a lion!" And as I said that....the lions slinked away. I ruined their careful hunting of those "on edge" impalas and wildebeests and I ruined our photo opportunity of these majestic creatures. To my defense, it was the first lion in the wild that I had ever seen! I guess the lesson learned is: just keep your mouth shut on a safari, or use a quiet voice. Maybe one day I will learn to control my voice volume. So yes, we tried to follow the lions that had slinked away by taking the vehicle into the African bush. These were smart lions. To no avail, we had lost the lions. At least I would see some other "big cats" later on this South African trip at the Emdoneni Lodge, 20 miles or so away from the Hluhluwe/Umfolozi Park.
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| Giraffe at dusk |
That was just the first part of the safari. Maya and I took another safari that same day which started at 5 PM and lasted until dark. Dusk was another great time to observe animals. One of the best parts about the 5 PM safari was watching the sun set over the African Savannah and observing the stars emerge. In Africa, in this beautiful, protected area covering 96,000 hectares, you feel so small, yet so connected. There is something about breathing in the midst of nature, nature that many of us in the US are unable to experience, except through watching informational shows or documentaries on the National Geographic channel, that validates the unique feeling of the African Savannah. I really did feel like Pumbaa and Timon from
The Lion King watching those "sparkly dots up there in the big bluish-black thing". It is a sight to see. You understand that "everything you see exists together in a delicate balance....You need to understand that balance, and respect all the creatures from the crawling ant to the leaping antelope." -
The Lion King
Watching and capturing these animals on camera was a gift. There is so much beauty and balance out there that we need protect. Most of that protection and awareness comes through experience and education.
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| Night on the African Savannah |
More about the Emdoneni Lodge where I had a cheetah on my lap, later....not sure what I'll write about that...
Hakuna Matata!
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| This is crazy and real. Advice: Exercise your best judgement. |
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